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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.